Alternative medicine

There are significant reservations about complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) including a "shortage of evidence supporting the efficacy and safety of CAM" for skin problems. However, patients express a desire to utilize natural ingredients as treatment. A literature search found a growing prevalence of CAM use for skin conditions. A number of textbooks address CAM perspectives of skin care. The purpose of this section is to review botanical compounds in skin care; a broader review the history and theory behind other CAM modalities such as psychocutaneous therapies, acupuncture and homeopathy can be found in recent reviews.

Westernedit

The plant monographs with dermatological relevance of the former German Commission E have recently been reviewed.

According to Baumann, "Botanical compounds for which dermatologic and cosmetic applications have emerged include: olive oil, chamomile, colloidal oatmeal, oat kernel extract, feverfew, acai berry, coffee berry, curcumin, green tea, pomegranate, licorice, paper mulberry, arbutin, and soy. "Many of these botanical sources offer biologically active components that require further in vitro and in vivo investigation".

A review of 35 plant families found that a "variety of phytomolecules, derived in particular from polyphenols, triterpenes and sterols classes, demonstrated a promising activity."

Colloidal oatmeal may be beneficial in psoriasis. Aloe vera may help in atopic dermatitis. In both these conditions, the benefit may arise from anti-inflammatory properties. "For combating acne and rosacea, green tea, niacinamide and feverfew are considered efficacious. For hyperpigmentation and antioxidative capabilities, licorice, green tea, arbutin, soy, acai berry, turmeric and pomegranate are among those plants and compounds found to be most beneficial. Additional research is needed to determine to confirm and elucidate the benefits of these ingredients in the prevention and management of skin disease."

An assessment of clinical trials on green tea preparations and their uses in dermatology found some evidence for potential benefits.

Ayurvedaedit

Ayurvedic skincare is derived from medicinal practices that began over 5,000-years ago in India. Ayurvedic medicine and healing practices are based on Indian philosophical, psychological, conventional, and medicinal understandings. Most of the ayurvedic skincare products contain the following herbs—aloe vera, almond, avocado, carrot, castor, clay, cocoa, coconut oil, cornmeal, cucumber, cutch tree, emu oil, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, grape seed oil, ground almond and walnut shell, horse chestnut, witch hazel, and honey.citation needed

Ayurvedic approaches have been used in molluscum contagiosum, lymphatic filariasis, vitiligo and lichen planus.

Phyllanthus emblica (amla, Indian gooseberry) has been used in ayurvedic medicine. Standardized extracts of Phyllanthus emblica have a long-lasting and broad-spectrum antioxidant activity. This may be suitable for use in Anti-aging cream, sunscreen and general purpose skin care products.

Traditional Chinese medicineedit

Substancesedit

Natural skin care ingredients include jojoba, safflower oil, rose hip seed oil, shea butter, beeswax, witch hazel, aloe vera, tea tree oil, coconut oil, and chamomile.

• Egg oil can be used as an excipient/carrier in a variety of cosmetic preparations such as creams, ointments, sun-screen products, or lotions. In Indian, Japanese, Unani (Roghan Baiza Murgh) and Chinese traditional medicine, egg oil was traditionally used as a treatment for hair care.
• Jojoba is used for skin care because it is a natural moisturizer for the skin. Jojoba is actually a liquid wax that becomes solid below room temperature, but is known as an oil.
• Shea butter is derived from the kernel of the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). Shea butter is known for its cosmetic properties as a moisturizer and emollient.

Researchedit

Dermatological research suggests that the bioactive ingredients used in cosmeceuticals have benefits beyond the traditional moisturizer (e.g., Chen et al., 2005; Zettersten, Ghadially, Feingold, Crumrine, & Elias, 1997). However, despite reports of benefits from some cosmeceutical products, there are no formal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims.

Biocompatible and environmentally friendly natural compounds have the potential to provide materials with photoresistant and thermoresistant properties.

Dehydroabietic acid (DAA), a naturally occurring diterpene resin acid, "has lifespan extension effects in Caenorhabditis elegans, prevents lipofuscin accumulation, and prevents collagen secretion in human dermal fibroblasts. We found that these anti-aging effects are primarily mediated by SIRT1 activation." DAA may activate SIRT1 enzymatic activity, which may have a preventive effect against the aging process.

Validated use of these materials and products awaits further assessment.